Jaeger Le-Coultre, the watchmaker’s watchmaker releases their new novelties for Watches & Wonders 2024.
Press Release with commentary in italics.
New: Jaeger Le-Coultre Novelties from Watches & Wonders 2024
Commentary
How can we come to Watches and Wonders without posting about the iconic brand who’s the watchmaker’s watchmaker. This year, Jaeger Le-Coultre celebrates the magic of mechanical watchmaking where they went back to the fundamentals and focus on precision. They will tell this story over four chapters namely as per below.
- Precision of Production
- Precision of Chronometry
- Precision of Regulating Organs
- Precision of Regulations
Through the story from the above four chapters, the Maison introduces two entirely new Duometre namely the Duometer Chronograph Moon and Heliotourbillon Perpetual. We will cover this story more in depth when we go for our touch and feel session with Peter writing about it live as we speak.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE PRESENTS THE DUOMETRE CHRONOGRAPH MOON
Key Facts:
- The new Calibre 391 unites a highly complex chronograph with a moon phase display
- The patented Duometre mechanism ensures remarkable precision
- A new case and dials express contemporary elegance in distinctive style
In 2007 Jaeger-LeCoultre launched the ground-breaking Duometre mechanism in the form of a chronograph – the complication that epitomises the concept of precision. In 2024, the Maison applies the Duometre concept in an entirely new timepiece, marrying the high precision of a chronograph with the charm of a celestial complication. Powered by the new Calibre 391, the Duometre Chronograph Moon presents an intriguing contrast between the lightning-fast operation of the chronograph – which can time intervals as small as 1/6th of a second – and the slow rhythm of the moon as it passes through its cycle in 29.53 days, complemented by a Night and Day display.
At Watches and Wonders 2024, Jaeger-LeCoultre presents the Duometre Chronograph Moon in two variations: a platinum case contrasting with a copper-coloured dial, and a pink gold case offset by the discreet elegance of a silver dial. Both models are enhanced by a hand-stitched alligator strap with small-scale alligator lining.
Solving the Conundrum of Complications
The fundamental problem of complex mechanical watches is that, for any complication to operate, it naturally draws on some of the power provided by the barrel. This disrupts the perfectly regular and constant supply that is required by the meticulously adjusted escapement to fulfil its timekeeping function as precisely as possible.
The search for a solution to this problem at Jaeger-LeCoultre during the early 2000s eventually led to the invention of the Duometre mechanism. Introduced in 2007 and patented by Jaeger-LeCoultre, it features two separate barrels and two independent gear trains – one to drive the escapement (for timekeeping) and one to power the complications – both integrated into a single calibre and linked to a single escapement. For the first time, it was possible to guarantee that the movement’s isochronism (the regularity of its ‘heartbeat’) is not compromised by the operation of any complication.
While the Duometre is revolutionary in modern watchmaking, the underlying principle had, in fact, been explored by the Manufacture more than 120 years earlier; the LeCoultre Calibre 19/20RMSMI was equipped with two barrels and fitted into a pocket watch in 1881. Because that calibre had only one gear train, it did not solve the fundamental problem; nevertheless, it provided a theoretical ‘trigger’ for the Duometre concept.
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers and watchmakers chose the chronograph for the first application of the Duometre concept in 2007 as it represented the greatest challenge to accurate timekeeping posed by any complication because its operation requires short bursts of very high power. Since then, the Duometre mechanism has been associated with several other complications, including moon phases, travel time and a tourbillon.
An Entirely New Calibre
For Calibre 391, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers started from the ground up to develop a fully integrated movement that combines a manually wound mono-pusher chronograph with moon phase and night-day complications, as well as two power reserve indicators and a seconde foudroyante (flying second) display.
When the chronograph mechanism is activated, the foudroyante hand begins its whirling dance, making a complete rotation in one second, during which it beats six times – stopping instantaneously when the chronograph timer is stopped and thus providing a reading accurate to 1/6th of a second.
On the dial side of the Duometre Chronograph Moon, two open-worked sections offer intriguing glimpses of the mechanism, hinting at the mechanical beauty of the calibre. On the reverse side, fully revealed beneath the transparent crystal case-back, much of the movement is open-worked and an array of bridges seems almost to be floating above the levers and wheels, drawing the eye deep into the mechanism. Creating visual unity across the entire expanse of the movement, the bridges are decorated with sunrayed Geneva stripes. It’s a challenging technique that demands absolute precision because the components must be decorated one-by-one, and yet radiate from the centre of the regulating organ to the edge of the calibre in perfect alignment once the movement is assembled.
The open-working of Calibre 391 serves two purposes: not only does it greatly enhance the aesthetics, it also serves a technical purpose, enabling the watchmakers to more easily assemble some parts of this highly complex calibre. This is a fine example of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s philosophy of marrying mechanics and aesthetics in such a way that each serves the other. Being a manually wound calibre, there is no winding rotor to conceal the chronograph levers.
Traditional Haute Horlogerie finishes abound: crisply bevelled and polished angles define the edges of the bridges; brushed surfaces contrasts with polished metal; perlage on the main plate reflects light back up through the mechanism; and blue screws provide a pleasing contrast to the silvery tones of the metal.
A Fascinating Display and Refined Details
The dial is both elegant and intuitive to read, featuring the distinctive three-counter layout and long, thin hands that make the Duometre so recognisable. Echoing the aesthetic of traditional sector dials, the main dial surface and the centre of each sub-dial has the fine, almost powdery texture achieved by the opaline finish; in contrast, the broad ring encircling each sub-dial is decorated with azuré (ultra-fine engraving in perfectly regular, concentric circles). Adding to the visual appeal, the sub-dials are slightly sunken below the main surface, while the edge of the dial is subtly curved, closely following the contours of the glass box crystal.
Enhancing the symmetry of the layout, the moon phase display is integrated into the chronograph hours and minutes sub-dial, which is set at 3 o’clock. Its blue background is visually balanced by that of the Night and Day display, which is integrated into the time sub-dial at 9 o’clock. Elapsed time is displayed up to 12 hours, 60 minutes and 60 seconds, accurate to 1/6th of a second and a tachymeter scale marked around the periphery of the dial enables the wearer to measure speed based on the time taken to travel a fixed distance, or to calculate distance based on speed.
The seconde foudroyante is displayed in a sub-dial at 6 o’clock, flanked by the two open-worked areas that reveal parts of the mechanism. The two power reserves (50 hours for each barrel and gear train) are displayed on an arc-shaped bridge on each side of the sub-dial. Both barrels are wound by a single crown – forwards for the barrel that provides power for the timekeeping function and backwards for the second barrel, which provides power for the complications.
A New Duometre Case: Contemporary Elegance Inspired by Tradition
Marking the launch of three new Duometre models in 2024, Jaeger-LeCoultre has designed an entirely new case for the collection. A contemporary interpretation of the savonette pocket watches created by the Maison in the 19th-century, its rounded contours are highly tactile as well as visually appealing. (The French word savonette literally means a small disc of soap with rounded contours that can be cradled in the palm of a hand.) With its convex crystal and gracefully rounded bezel, the new Duometre case expresses this literal definition very well. The crown, too, has been redesigned, with deep and rounded notches that make it a joy to handle. Indeed, the highly polished edges of the lugs are the only sharp lines to be found.
A comfortable 42.5 mm in diameter, the case is a complex structure of 34 separate parts and the lugs are screwed rather than integrated to enable the use of multiple finishing techniques. A mixture of polished, brushed and micro-blasted surfaces creates a fascinating play of light with every movement of the wrist.
With an entirely new calibre, dial and case, the Duometre Chronograph Moon is an eloquent expression of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s relentlessly creative spirit. It embodies the Maison’s philosophy of combining beauty with technical sophistication, and a deep respect for the traditions of Haute Horlogerie with constant innovation – always with precision at the heart of the matter.
TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS DUOMETRE CHRONOGRAPH MOON
Case: Pink Gold 750/1000 (18 carats) or 950 platinum
Dimensions: 42.5 mm diameter x 14.2 mm thick
Calibre: Manually wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 391
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds; Chronograph with 12-hour counter, 60-minute counter, 1/6th-second counter and central chronograph seconds; Moon phases, Night & Day, two Power Reserve indicators
Power Reserve: 50 hours for each barrel
Front dial: Silver opaline (in pink gold case); Copper-coloured opaline (in platinum case)
Water resistance: 5 bar
Strap: Alligator with small scale alligator lining
Reference: Pink Gold: Q622252J / Platinum: Q622656J
JAEGER-LECOULTRE PRESENTS A NEW INTERPRETATION OF THE DUOMETRE QUANTIEME LUNAIRE
Key Facts :
- Duometre: a revolutionary approach to timekeeping precision
- The first Duometre model in steel – and a new case designn
- A deep blue dial distinguished by multiple decorative finishes
Since the launch of the Duometre Chronograph in 2007 – the first timepiece based on the ground-breaking Duometre concept – the system has been used with a few other complications, giving its name to a line of technically advanced watches that are distinguished by highly precise timekeeping. In 2024, Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a new generation of Duometre timepieces – among them a reinterpretation of the Duometre Quantieme Lunaire (Moon Phase). The first Duometre piece to be offered in steel, its eye-catching blue dial, paired with a new case, lends a decidedly contemporary air to a timeless and distinctive design.
Ensuring a Perfect Supply of Energy
With their invention of the Duometre in 2007, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers and watchmakers solved a fundamental problem of complex mechanical watches. That is, to operate, a complication must draw from the energy that is supplied from the barrel to the escapement via the gear train. This naturally interrupts the perfect regularity of the power supply and thus compromises precision.
In testament to the Maison’s inventiveness since its earliest days, its watchmakers had already explored solutions to the problem in the 19th century: in an 1881 pocket watch they introduced Calibre 19/20RMSMI equipped with two barrels. However, a double-barrel calibre still does not address the real issue because both barrels feed power to a single gear train that is employed for both timekeeping and the operation of complications.
Nevertheless, that early calibre provided the Manufacture’s 21st-century engineers and watchmakers with a starting point for the revolutionary Duometre concept. By effectively separating the power supply into two ‘streams’ – one barrel and gear train for timekeeping and a separate barrel and gear train for the complication(s), both linked to a single escapement – the Duometre system guarantees absolute constancy of the power supply, regardless of whether a complication is operating or not.
Emphasising the precision of the calibre, a distinctive element of the Duometre Quantieme Lunaire dial is the seconde foudroyante hand, which whirls continuously in a sub-dial at 6 o’clock. Making a complete revolution in one second (versus a ‘standard’ seconds hand, which rotates in 60 seconds) with six ‘jumps’ per rotation, the foudroyante hand makes it possible to observe intervals of precisely one-sixth of a second.
A Precise Approach to Aesthetics
For Jaeger-LeCoultre, the pursuit of precision is not limited to the accuracy of timekeeping but is equally important for the beauty of the design and finishes. On the deep blue dial of the Duometre Quantieme Lunaire, the long and very fine hands are a signature of all Duometre watches, as is the symmetrical layout, with three sub-dials forming an inverted pyramid. The sub-dial at 3 o’clock shows the time, with the cardinal hours marked by applied Arabic numerals; the sub-dial at 9 o’clock displays the date with a hand and the moon phase set against a blue sky. The seconde foudroyante sub-dial nestles beneath them at 6 o’clock.
The dial is made in several sections, with different finishes to create visual interest and contrast. The opaline main dial has the very soft glow and sense of visual depth characteristic of that decorative technique. The lower section of the dial is sunray-brushed and, in an added touch of refinement, the two power reserve indicators are distinguished from this sunrayed background by an opaline arc.
Inspired by the aesthetic of the sector dials that were featured on historic timepieces, the broad ring encircling each is sunray-brushed. The convex curve of the dial perimeter closely follows the contour of the glass -box crystal that protects it, and the sub-dials are slightly sunken into its surface, increasing the sense of visual depth.
Further evidence of the Maison’s approach to precision can be seen in the finishing of the movement, fully visible beneath the transparent crystal case-back. Much of the calibre is open-worked, which serves both an aesthetic and a technical purpose: the latter enables the watchmakers to set and assemble some of the 374 components more easily, while the former allows a view deep into the mechanism.
Creating visual unity across the entire expanse of the movement, the bridges are decorated with sunrayed Geneva stripes. It’s a challenging technique that demands absolute precision because the components must be decorated one-by-one, yet the stripes must radiate from the centre of the regulating organ to the edge of the calibre in perfect alignment once the movement is assembled.
A New Duometre Case: Contemporary Elegance Inspired by Tradition
Marking the launch of three new Duometre models in 2024, Jaeger-LeCoultre has designed an entirely new case for the collection. A contemporary interpretation of the savonette pocket watches created by the Maison in the 19th-century, its rounded contours are highly tactile as well as visually appealing. (The French word savonette literally means a small disc of soap with rounded contours that can be cradled in the palm of a hand.) With its convex crystal and gracefully rounded bezel, the new Duometre case expresses this literal definition very well. The crown, too, has been redesigned, with deep and rounded notches that make it a joy to handle. Indeed, the only sharp lines to be found are on the highly polished edges of the lugs.
A comfortable 42.5 mm in diameter, the case is a complex structure of 34 separate parts and the lugs are screwed rather than integrated, to enable multiple finishing techniques. A mixture of polished, brushed and micro-blasted surfaces creates a fascinating play of light with every movement of the wrist.
With its blue dial and steel case, the new interpretation of the Duometre Quantieme Lunaire lends a decidedly contemporary air to a technically sophisticated timepiece. It perfectly represents Jaeger-LeCoultre’s relentless pursuit of precision and its spirit of innovation, anchored in a deep respect for the traditions of Haute Horlogerie.
TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS DUOMETRE QUANTIEME LUNAIRE
Case: Steel
Dimensions: 42.5 mm diameter x 13.05 mm thick
Calibre: Manually wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 381
Functions: Hour, Minutes, Central Seconds, 1/6th of a second, Moon Phases, Date, Two power reserves
Power Reserve: 50 hours for each barrel
Front dial: Blue opaline
Water resistance: 5 bar
Strap: Alligator with small scale alligator lining
Reference: Q604848J
JAEGER-LECOULTRE PRESENTS THE DUOMETRE HELIOTOURBILLON PERPETUAL
Key Facts :
- An innovative tourbillon constructed on three axes to create a unique kinematic effect – a first for Jaeger-LeCoultre
- The Duometre concept allied to a perpetual calendar with a grande date
- New manual Calibre 388 developed and produced in-house
Over the course of almost two centuries, Jaeger-LeCoultre has distinguished itself through the development of increasingly sophisticated means of achieving the perfect regularity of the ‘heartbeat’ of its calibres – essential for accurate timekeeping. Among the key areas of research in this pursuit of precision, the Manufacture has developed great expertise in tourbillons and also invented the Duometre mechanism, which enables the addition of complications without any compromise to the accuracy of the timekeeping function.
In 2024, Jaeger-LeCoultre unites these two lines of development, to create the Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual. Pushing the boundaries of inventiveness further than ever, the new Calibre 388 features an entirely new tourbillon construction: one that spins on three axes to create a ‘spinning top’ effect. Beating at a frequency of 4Hz (28,800 vph) to further enhance chronometry, Calibre 388 also incorporates a perpetual calendar with a grande date indication.
The Duometre Concept – a Breakthrough in Precision
Before Jaeger-LeCoultre developed the Duometre concept, adding complications to a watch movement seemed irreconcilable with accurate timekeeping. That is because the fundamental requirement of precise timekeeping is that the power supply from the movement’s barrel to the escapement should be absolutely steady. However, in order to operate, a complication must draw on the power supply, which interrupts that steady flow and thus jeopardises precision.
Introduced in 2007, the patented Duometre mechanism features two barrels and two separate gear trains housed in a single calibre and linked to a single regulating organ. One gear train powers the time indications and the other drives all additional functions. By separating the power supply in this way, the Duometre mechanism guarantees an exceptionally high degree of operating accuracy.
Thanks to this ingenious concept, the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre added a new chapter to watchmaking history, opening the door to horological complexity and laying the foundation of an entire Duometre collection.
The Heliotourbillon – a New Spin on Multiple Axes
Incorporating almost eight decades of accumulated expertise in the tourbillon regulating mechanism, the Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual, features a newly developed tourbillon configuration that rotates on three axes. In doing so, it creates a completely new kinematic effect for Jaeger-LeCoultre resembling a spinning top.
Initially devised for pocket-watches, the traditional tourbillon, which spins on a single axis, does not compensate for the effects of gravity in all positions. Having understood that an additional axis of rotation must be added in order to be more effective in all positions that a wrist-worn watch may adopt, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers developed the dual-axis Gyrotourbillon, and various other tourbillon configurations, each fitted with differently shaped hairsprings.
Fitted with a cylindrical hairspring, the Heliotourbillon takes this thinking further, with a newly developed construction comprising three titanium cages rotating on three axes. The first cage is set at a 90-degree angle to the balance wheel and rotates perpendicular to it. The second cage is set at 90 degrees to the first (thus, on the same plane as the balance wheel). Together, these two cages are constrained by an axis tilted at 40 degrees and make a full rotation in 30 seconds. The third cage is perpendicular to the second and makes a full rotation in 60 seconds. Supported on ceramic ball bearings to minimise friction, the tourbillon consists of 163 components and weighs less than 0.7 grams.
A Perpetual Calendar with a grande date Display
As a noble complement to the highly sophisticated tourbillon and Duometre mechanisms, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s watchmakers integrated a perpetual calendar into Calibre 388. Among the most challenging complications to master, a perpetual calendar is a miniature mechanical computer that must automatically adjust for months of different lengths and for leap years; it needs manual correction of the day and date indications only in 2100 and in subsequent centenary years that are not also leap years.
A feature of Calibre 388 is that the hours and minutes can be set either backwards or forwards without compromising the perpetual calendar. Because normally, a perpetual calendar is set through the passing of time (the hour and minute hands), adjusting the time backwards desynchronises and can damage the calendar mechanism. In Calibre 388, the relationship between the winding and calendar assemblies is such that the perpetual calendar mechanism moves forwards only and cannot be dragged backwards when the time is set backwards.
Other notable features of Calibre 388 include a Grande Date display: a classical yet rare complication sought-after by watch connoisseurs, it is set at the 3 o’clock position on the hours-and-minutes sub-dial, ensuring great legibility. The year indication shows the last digit of a leap year in red – a Jaeger-LeCoultre patent – and the moon-phase indication is accurate to 122 years.
A Refined Dial Reinterprets the Duometre’s Aesthetic Codes
The Duometre collection has always been distinguished by the powerful symmetry of the dial layout. On the dial of the Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual, the triangular arrangement that directly expresses the underlying mechanism with its two barrels and gear trains has been turned 90 degrees, as if the winding crown forms the apex of the triangle, the time display is flanked by the two power reserves, and the ‘base’ of the triangle is formed by the moon-phase indicator and days on one side and the months and years on the other.
On the vertical axis, the two sides of the dial are separated by a gold bridge with contrasting areas of microblasting and bevelling, creating an intriguing play of light – and echoing the finishes on the watch case. The left-hand side of the dial is open-worked to provide a fascinating view of the tourbillon performing its ‘spinning top’ rotation – a kinematic effect created by the combination of the three cages rotating on different axes and at different speeds. A sapphire crystal window in the side of the case offers another way to view this captivating mechanical show.
The tourbillon is set above a background of deep blue lacquer representing a starry sky and, as it spins, red triangles set on the third cage indicate 20-second intervals marked on a sapphire crystal arc that floats above the starry blue background. On the main dial refined finishes abound, with applied hour indexes and frames around the date and year, and a mix of opaline, brushed and azuré surfaces creating subtle contrasts between the different indications.
Epitomising the noble art of watchmaking tradition, this fine decoration is carried over to the movement, even on components that are not visible through the sapphire crystal caseback: brushed surfaces contrast with perlage, edges are hand-bevelled and polished, and sunrayed Geneva stripes (côtes de Genève soleillées) radiate seamlessly across the entire expanse of the bridges. Like all Jaeger-LeCoultre movements, Calibre 388 was conceived, designed, produced, assembled and finished within the Manufacture.
A New Duometre Case: Contemporary Elegance Inspired by Tradition
Marking the launch of three new Duometre models in 2024, Jaeger-LeCoultre has designed an entirely new case for the collection. A contemporary interpretation of the savonette pocket watches created by the Maison in the 19th-century, its rounded contours are highly tactile as well as visually appealing. (The French word savonette literally means a small disc of soap with rounded contours that can be cradled in the palm of a hand.) With its convex crystal and gracefully rounded bezel, the new Duometre case
expresses this literal definition very well. The crown, too, has been redesigned, with deep and rounded notches that make it a joy to handle. Indeed, the only sharp lines to be found are on the highly polished edges of the lugs.
Measuring 44 mm in diameter, the case is a complex structure of 34 separate parts and the lugs are screwed rather than integrated, to enable multiple finishing techniques. A mixture of polished, brushed and micro-blasted surfaces creates a fascinating play of light with every movement of the wrist. The apparent simplicity of the case belies its complexity of detail, which perfectly complements the complexity of the calibre within.
With its extreme mechanical sophistication, innovative tourbillon and highly refined aesthetics, the Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual represents a new adventure in the Maison’s quest for precision, as well as its boundless creativity.
TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS
DUOMETRE HELIOTOURBILLON PERPETUAL
Case: Pink Gold 750/1000 (18 carats)
Dimensions: 44 mm x 14.7 mm thick
Calibre: Manually-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 388
Functions: Hours and Minutes, Seconds, Heliotourbillon, Perpetual calendar (Day, Date, Month, Year), Moon phases, Two power reserves
Power Reserve: 46 hours for each barrel
Front dial: Silver opaline
Water resistance: 3 bar
Strap: Brown alligator leather with small-scale alligator lining
Reference: Q6202420 – limited edition of 20 pieces
JAEGER-LECOULTRE REINTERPRETS THE MASTER ULTRA THIN PERPETUAL CALENDAR
Key Facts :
- High-performing Calibre 868 extends the power reserve to 70 hours
- A sophisticated aesthetic update to the case and dials
- A new model in pink gold with a midnight blue gradient dial*
Jaeger-LeCoultre conceived the Master Ultra Thin collection as the quintessential dress watch for the modern aesthete, harnessing the Maison’s long history of mastering thin calibres and epitomising its philosophy of uniting mechanical virtuosity with timeless beauty. In 2024, the collection has been refreshed and includes a new interpretation of the Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar, featuring a subtly modernised case and dial design, as well as a significantly increased power reserve. Four variations are offered, including a new model with a gradient midnight blue sunray dial*.
Precise and Perpetual – Resolving the Anomaly of Time
The reason for the complexity of our calendar, with its leap years and different numbers of days in the months, lies in an anomaly between the way we measure civil time and the cycles of the celestial bodies on which those measurements are based. Our 365-day calendar year is almost 6 hours shorter than a solar year (the time it takes for the Sun to return to the same position in the sky, completing a full cycle of seasons), which lasts approximately 365.2425 days.
Consequently, for watchmakers, a perpetual calendar is among the most challenging complications to master; a miniature mechanical computer, it must automatically adjust for months of different lengths and for leap years. Unlike a simple date display, which must be adjusted at the end of every month that doesn’t have 31 days, a perpetual calendar will not need any manual correction until 2100, which is a non-leap-year centenary. On centenary years that are also leap years it needs no adjustment.
Calibre 868, which powers the 2024 Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar, was designed, produced and assembled in-house at Jaeger-LeCoultre; it evolved from the well-proven perpetual calendar movement launched by the Manufacture in 2013. In line with the Manufacture’s constant drive for technical innovation, the latest-generation Calibre 868 features a new escapement and pallets – reconstructed in a slightly modified shape, they minimise friction and thus consume less energy – and offers a robust power reserve of 70 hours. The long power reserve is particularly appreciated in a calibre with such complex indications and allows the wearer to set the watch aside for an entire weekend and wear it again on Monday without needing to correct any indications. When required, correction is done simply, via a single corrector set in the side of the case.
A Sophisticated Update for the Perpetual Dress Watch
While the size of the case remains the same as the original Master Ultra Thin Perpetual calendar – retaining the elegant 39mm diameter and 9.2 mm thickness – its design has been subtly modernised, with revised proportions and slimmer, more elongated lugs that make it even more comfortable on wrists of all sizes.
The dial design has also been modified, while retaining all the symmetry and balance of the earlier layout. Refined sub-dials highlight the indications, making them even more legible than before; the starry sky of the moon phase display is more intricate; the applied hour markers have been elongated; and each facet of the Dauphine hands has a different finish – polished and satin. Taken individually, each change is so subtle as to be hardly discernible to the casual observer, yet they combine to create a more cohesive and timelessly elegant design – underlining the importance that Jaeger-LeCoultre attaches to precision in aesthetics as well as mechanics. Just above the hands at the centre of the dial, a small security zone indicator shows red to warn the user not to adjust the time or calendar indications at a time when it could damage the delicate mechanism.
Four variations are offered, including a model with a new gradient midnight blue dial that contrasts dramatically its pink gold case*. The azure finish of the sub-dials (ultra-fine engraving in perfectly regular, concentric circles) stands out against the sunray-brushing of the main dial, creating a beautiful play of light*. In addition, two pink gold models are presented with classical eggshell dials – one with diamonds set around the bezel, one without. A fourth variation is offered in steel with a sunray-brushed silver dial. The Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar is presented on an alligator strap that can easily be interchanged according to the mood of the wearer.
True to La Grande Maison’s guiding philosophy of marrying tradition and modernity, the latest version of the Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar presents one of horology’s great complications in a fresh and timelessly modern style.
TECHNICAL DETAILS
MASTER ULTRA THIN PERPETUAL CALENDAR
Case: pink gold; pink gold with diamond-set bezel (60 diamonds ~ 0.85 carats); steel
Dimensions: 39 mm x 9.2 mm
Calibre: automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 868
Frequency: 28,800
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, perpetual calendar (day, date, month, year) with red security zone, moon phases
Power reserve: 70 hours
Dial: gradient blue sunray*; eggshell; silver sunray
Strap: Black alligator (pink gold case with eggshell dial, steel case) / Blue alligator (pink gold case with midnight blue dial)*
Water resistance: 5 bar
References:
Q114258J – pink gold with midnight blue dial*
Q1142510 – pink gold with eggshell dial
Q1142501 – pink gold with diamonds and eggshell dial
Q114842J – steel with silver sunrayed dial
* The new pink gold model with a midnight blue gradient dial will be presented in May 2024.
