Louis Erard goes off the beaten track by using fine stone and artisanal glass dials in their new Excellence Régulateur. Three variations, in Aventurine, Lapis-Lazuli and Malachite. Each in a limited edition of 99 pieces.
Press Release information with commentary in italics.
Commentary
Louis Erard continues to delight collectors with this new series of fine stone and artisanal glass dials. The base of the collection is their well established Excellence Régulateur. This Geneva Watch Days release is for 3 watches, each limited to 99 pieces, in the usual accessible prices that Louis Erard has established. We have been particularly thrilled with their collaboration projects, in particular the two series with Alain Silberstein – the Excellence Régulateur Alain Silberstein as well as the Triptych with Alain Silberstein. But also with the Excellence Guilloché Main. And now this. No collaboration is cited for the works, though we guess the dials must have been made by specialists in the trade.
Visually, the watches do speak for themselves. Each dial is unique. The press materials were not clear if the aventurine is cut from natural quartz, or is the man made kind which is also call moonstone, or goldflux or goldstone. Though we suspect that the material used is goldstone. In our review of the Little Lange 1 Moonphase Goldstone, we included a paragraph with some details on the material. Lapis-Lazuli is the naturally occuring deep-blue metamorphic rock transformed under high temperatures and pressures. Lapis-Lazuli is considered as a semi-precious stone and treasured for not only the intense blue but also for its ability to take a high shine when polished. While Malachite is also a naturally occurring stone prized for its intense green hue.
The movement used in all three watches is the automatic regulator, Sellita SW266-1, a mechanism which is already well tested, and proven.
And as usual, the pricing point chosen by Louis Erard makes these watches very accessible to the public, and may well be the least expensive pieces to feature these stones and glass.
New: Louis Erard Excellence Régulateur Aventurine, Lapis-Lazuli and Malachite
Price is CHF 2,900 before taxes. 99 piece limited edition X 3.
The Franches-Montagnes watchmakers have chosen the Maison’s historic model, Le Régulateur, to carve a new family of watches from the raw material of stones and mineral glass.
The Excellence Régulateur Aventurine, Excellence Régulateur Lapis-Lazuli, and Excellence Régulateur Malachite. Three models. Three colours. Three moods. Each of the three editions is limited to 99 pieces, but every watch is a unique piece in itself: each dial bears the mark of the millions of years that have shaped the stones or a unique array of speckled filaments.
The pure design brings these fragments of Earth back up to the 21st century. A collision of time. Strength in contrast. Precise motions. Aesthetic fusion. Cutting stones and glass to meet the finesse of a dial requires expertise in fine watchmaking. The challenge is twofold, since the dial has two levels and the material is cut to reveal the regulator’s snailed opaline dual counter. The hours are displayed at the top, the seconds at the bottom, and the large signature fir tree minute hand is in the centre. Discreet glossy silver indexes further showcase the technicality of the regulator.
The Excellence Régulateur Aventurine is the night owl in this inaugural series. The aventurine stands out with sparkling inclusions. It takes its name from the Italian “aventura” meaning adventure or chance and was first created by Venetian glass-blowers in the 17th century. Prized for its celestial allure, aventurine holds a special place in the world of luxury, as fascinating as a meteor shower on a moonless night over the ridges of the Jura Mountains.
The Excellence Régulateur Lapis-Lazuli is the deep azure of early dawn, the blue hour suspended between night and the new day. A flash of Yves Klein blue on the wrist. And as if we needed reminding, lapis lazuli is a cerulean blue metamorphic rock dotted with silicate inclusions. A stone of inner peace. An ornamental stone that has survived millennia, and from which man has long extracted an ultramarine blue pigment more precious than gold.
The Excellence Régulateur Malachite plants its feet firmly back on the ground. A burst of woodland pasture brushed by German artist Gerhard Richter. Endowed with the ability to amplify positive energy, the stone is typical of luxury watchmaking in the 1960s but takes on a decidedly contemporary feel here. The familiarity of a vintage piece, yet accessible, contemporary, light, natural. As if the silver and steel cladding were stripping the malachite of its somewhat dusty luxury connotations to reveal its lively, natural beauty.
Each watch has a matching calf nubuck leather strap with tone-on-tone stitching. “Deep” blue for the Excellence Régulateur Aventurine. “Oceania” blue for the Excellence Régulateur Lapis-Lazuli. “Basilico” green for the ’Excellence Régulateur Malachite. Complete with a polished stainless steel pin buckle and functional catch spring bars enabling the strap to be changed quickly.
Finally, as usual, the price shock: 2,900 Swiss francs. Unprecedented in watchmaking at this level of mechanical mastery, design and craftsmanship. Once again, Louis Erard meets the challenge of fine watchmaking with art and style.
Louis Erard Excellence Régulateur Aventurine, Lapis-Lazuli and Malachite Specifications
Excellence Régulateur Aventurine ref. 85237AA32
Limited edition of 99 pieces
Recommended retail price: CHF 2,900
Movement Automatic regulator, Sellita SW266-1 calibre, 11½’’’, Ø25.60 mm, height: 5.60 mm, 31 jewels, 28,800 VpH (4Hz), élaboré grade
movement, special openworked oscillating weight with Louis Erard symbol, approx. 38 hours of power reserve
Functions HMS
Hour hand in a counter at 12 o’clock, central minute hand, second hand in a counter at 6 o’clock
Case Polished stainless steel, Ø42 mm, lug width: 22 mm, lug to lug: 49.60 mm, thickness: 12.25 mm, 3 pieces, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, movement visible through the transparent caseback, water-resistant up to a pressure of 5 bars (50 m/165 ft), signature fir tree crown, caseback engraved with “Limited Edition 1 of 99”
Dial Openworked blue aventurine, snailed opaline (matt silver) dual counter, glossy silver indexes, anthracite transfers in counters and white transfers on the aventurine part
Hands Signature fir tree rhodium-plated hands
Strap “Deep” blue calf nubuck leather with tone-on-tone stitching, polished stainless steel pin buckle, functional catch spring bars enabling the strap to be changed quickly
Dimensions: 22/20mm width, 80/115mm length
Excellence Régulateur Lapis-Lazuli ref. 85237AA35
Limited edition of 99 pieces
Recommended retail price: CHF 2,900
Dial Openworked lapis lazuli, snailed opaline (matt silver) dual counter, glossy silver indexes, anthracite transfers in counters and white transfers on the lapis lazuli part
Strap “Oceania” blue calf nubuck leather with tone-on-tone stitching, polished stainless steel pin buckle, functional catch spring bars enabling the strap to be changed quickly
Dimensions: 22/20mm width, 80/115mm length
Excellence Régulateur Malachite ref. 85237AA39
Limited edition of 99 pieces
Recommended retail price: CHF 2,900
Dial Openworked malachite, snailed opaline (matt silver) dual counter, glossy silver indexes, anthracite transfers in counters and white transfers on the malachite part
Strap “Basilico” green calf nubuck leather with tone-on-tone stitching, polished stainless steel pin buckle, functional catch spring bars enabling the strap to be changed quickly
Dimensions: 22/20mm width, 80/115mm length
