In 2019, Audemars Piguet unveiled the Code 11.59, then a brand new collection offering alternatives to the ever-dominant Royal Oak. At the time, the Code 11.59 was received with indifference at best and at worst, comparison to consumer watches from Fossil. While most of the criticism was overtly harsh and hyperbolic, the point stood that Audemar Piguet’s new portfolio of watches had failed to inspire. The issue that critics had with the first salvo of Code 11.59 was not so much with the case (which remains a winner even today), but the dial and everything on it. Fortunately, like every good business, the manufacture took aboard the grievances and progressively improved upon its product. Indeed, over the years, the Code 11.59 has gone from awkward to mercurial. The collection continues to evolve and today boasts a large range of sizes, materials, colours and complications. The one thing that has stayed a constant is its ultra-contemporary design.
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding 38 MM with light blue dial
On the 5th anniversary of the Code 11.59, Audemars Piguet has unveiled seven new references, all in pink gold – the most striking of which is (arguably) the 38 mm Selfwinding with light blue dial. Here, we bring you the details and our honest opinion on this demure yet unmissable Code 11.59 Ref. 77410OR.
The Case, Dial, and Hands
The new Code 11.59 Selfwinding in light blue comes with a 38 mm pink gold case. This isn’t the first time that the Code 11.59 comes in such a traditional size; the 38 mm range had actually made its debut last year and in pink gold as well. What’s different this time is just the colour of the strap and dial. The light blue of the new Code 11.59 Selfwinding is arguably the most gorgeous colour variation released yet for the 38 mm line. Yes, it’s just a colour change, but this one just pops compared to the rest. The fact that it is 38 mm also helps it stand out among the myriads of time-and-date watches out there. While many brands have been introducing smaller watches in recent years, modern watches under 40 mm are still an uncommon sight. A return to classical sizing is a return to a time when watches complement – not overpower – its wearer. It is a little ironic that in this age of excess, smaller watches have now become more eye-catching that its outsized counterparts. Combined with a light blue dial and alligator leather strap, the new Code 11.59 Selfwinding 38 mm is unmissable even from across the street.
Again, nothing else has changed relative to last year’s 38 mm debutants, especially not the dial. The signature embossed dial pattern was deliberately created to replace previous dials that were perhaps too sober for the collection. Meticulously engraved by hand, the base dies used to strike the dials feature a pattern of concentric circles like ripples on water. These circles are adorned with hundreds of tiny holes that play with light. It’s a shame that the dials are stamped and not handcrafted, but at the volume that Audemars Piguet handle annually, the latter is impractical and a naïve notion. These dials are finally coloured by method of PVD.
The Movement
Driving the Code 11.59 Selfwinding 38mm is the 188-part, 29-jewel Calibre 5900. This is one of Audemars Piguet’s newer movements, first introduced in 37 mm Royal Oak models back in 2022. Measuring only 26.2 mm x 3.9 mm, the automatic movement is delightfully restrained in size but packs a respectable 60 hours of power reserve while operating at 4 Hz.
The Calibre 5900 is visible through the sapphire crystal case back. It feels a tad too small even for the 38 mm case of the Code 11.59 Selfwinding, but there is no doubt about its finissage. The usual adornments are present: Geneva waves across the bridges, polished screw heads, perlage on the base plate, polished bevels, and a skeletonised winding mass, among other things.
The Competitive Landscape
Simple three-hand watches depend on superlative craftsmanship, design and – to some extent – brand recognition to thrive in its competitive market sector. Fortunately for the Code 11.59, it ticks all the boxes. Not an inch of the new Code 11.59 Selfwinding 38 mm lacks excitement, which is what it needs to stand out. And that’s important because the watch is priced at a fairly steep CHF29,800.
If the latest iterations of the Code 11.59 Selfwinding are too flamboyant for your taste, then the good news is that the older versions in 41 mm are still available for purchase. In comparison, their dials and hands are more conservative in design. The date window lacks a frame and is positioned at 4.30 instead of 3 o’clock. The other key difference is the presence of Arabic numeral hour markers for 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock. Love it or hate it, this is the legacy form of the Code 11.59 Selfwinding. The 41 mm variants of the Code 11.59 Selfwinding are priced at CHF30,900, a negligible premium of CHF1,100 over its 38 mm sibling.
For something contemporary with a similar level of finish that isn’t the Code 11.59, look no further than the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5226G. The Ref. 5226G with its textured charcoal grey dial, beige lume, and fabric pattern-embossed strap is undoubtedly a modern Patek Philippe creation. Yet, at the same time, design elements like the syringe hands, the Clous de Paris pattern on the case flanks, as well as the classically finished movement remind us of the Calatrava’s rich past. Priced at USD40,420, the Ref. 5226G is significantly pricier than the Code 11.59 Selfwinding. While it can be argued that the former is a more nuanced piece, whether it is worth a USD10,000 premium is ultimately down to the buyer.
Final Thoughts
Of the half dozen or so Code 11.59 novelties presented this year, it is the 38 mm light blue model that stands out. In a world dominated by large wristwatches, its sub-40 mm case size accentuates – not diminishes – its presence. The striking light blue palette and textured dial completes the picture of a demure yet assertive wristwatch. This isn’t going to be a watch for everyone, but then again, neither is every other Audemars Piguet timepiece from the modern era.
