For the nonconformist: Six unique watches to add into your watch collection

Many collectors, especially those who have been in the scene for a long while, have often commented that new watches are getting more predictable and boring.

To a certain extent, this may be true. There are numerous brands who are sticking to the “tried-and-tested” framework, where novelties undergo minor technical upgrades and minute facelifts (or, new dial variants). While there is an old adage that goes along the lines of “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”, this also means that many watch manufacturers tend to stick to the more conservative route by not introducing new watches with a radically different design.

However, there are also brands that are constantly trying to break new grounds with their novelties as well. While they may not often succeed, it certainly helps to capture the attention of collectors – especially those who are wishing for something refreshing.

In this week’s article, we are looking at six relatively unique watches – each with a design that is atypical of a conventional watch. What have we selected? Let us find out!

Atowak Tarantula

We begin the article with the intriguing Tarantula, from the microbrand Atowak.

The team behind Atowak was established slightly more than a decade ago, as a company that helps other microbrands to design and manufacture watches. It was only in the recent years that they have decided to produce their own watches, and its unique creations have certainly caught the attention of the horological scene. The Tarantula, for instance, features the uncommon “wandering hour” complication that was previously reserved for high horology. The execution of the Tarantula is done rather well, and we really adore its avantgarde looks as well.

Priced at US$2,199 (approximately S$2,870), the Tarantula offers collectors a fun and unique timepiece at a relatively accessible price point. If one is looking to add something different into their watch collection, the Atowak is certainly a timepiece worth considering.

Amida Digitrend Take-Off Edition

If one is looking for an effortlessly cool and conversational watch, the Amida Digitrend might just be the perfect timepiece that you are looking for.

First launched in 1979, the Amida Digitrend was one of the watches that had greatly inspired Max Busser, which led to the eventual creation of the HM5, HM8, and HMX. There is little wonder why this watch had fascinated Max (and many countless others), with its rather sleek silhouette and the mind-boggling digital display. The latter, especially, was rather ingenious since it utilises the concept of refraction – through a prism – to allow for the vertical projection of the discs for the time to display in an upright position.

The watch is powered by the self-winding Soprod NEWTON P092. The watch features an acceptable 44-hour power reserve, and it boasts Amida’s special module – consisting of 9 mechanical components – to drive the jumping hour discs. The Amida Digitrend Take-Off Edition is priced at CHF 2,900 (approximately S$4,253), which is rather reasonable for a highly original and cool timepiece.

Reservoir GT Tour Blue Edition

We have a thing for brands who try to attempt something different, and introduce different complications to the masses at a relatively affordable price point. The Reservoir GT Tour Blue Edition is one such timepiece.

Reservoir, who is a relative newcomer into the watchmaking scene, has caught our attention with their repertoire of interesting timepieces. The 43mm GT Tour Blue Edition combines both automotive and watchmaking together, with a timepiece that leverages on the retrograde complication that mimics a car’s tachometer. This is further seen in the power reserve indicator, which reminds us of a car’s fuel gauge. It is a refreshing take for sure, and we like how the brand has incorporated interesting complications into the watch.

The GT Tour Blue Edition is priced modestly at US$4,708 (approximately S$6,145). We like the inspiration behind the brand’s creation, and the use of such complications at a relatively accessible price point. While it might seemingly not be everyone’s cup of tea with a more polarising take on designs, we applaud Reservoir for being different. This is certainly a great attempt, and we do hope to see more watch manufacturers taking a leaf out of this.

Behrens UltraLight 20G

Behrens may be a newcomer in the horological scene, but that has not stopped the brand from breaking barriers and offering collectors watches that punch above its weight. The UltraLight 20G is an excellent example that encapsulates that.

First introduced in 2023, the UltraLight 20G showcases the strong capabilities of the Chinese watch manufacturer. The watch, as its name suggests, weighs a mere 20 grams (case only). But beyond the technical feat, the watch also features a beautiful in-house produced manual-winding movement with the retrograde complication, housed in a beautifully milled titanium case.

The best part of the UltraLight 20G is its price point. The watch retails at US$7,600 (approximately S$9,920), which is priced rather reasonably for such a groundbreaking timepiece. Brand-aside, if one had just taken a look at the specification sheet alone, you may just assume that it is a watch that competes with the likes of Richard Mille. While this may not be everyone’s cup of tea, it is also undeniable that the brand has done something incredible, without a ridiculous price tag.

Bell & Ross BR 01 Cyber Skull

Bell & Ross is a brand that often produces watches with interesting design cues, and the BR 01 Cyber Skull is one such timepiece from the French watch company.

The BR 01 Cyber Skull, as its name suggests, is part of the BR 01 collection. However, this is where the similarity stops. The Cyber Skull features a sleeker and smaller case, with a hexagon-like shape to provide a more angular and geometrical touch. If the watch aims to look futuristic and cool, then the new case design had certainly does its job well.

Another cool touch of the BR 01 Cyber Skull is definitely the “Skull” in the dial of the watch. The skull is crafted with many facets, similar to the motifs on the case. We like how the geometric shapes give the skull a three dimensional effect, and how it looks pretty much like a cyborg – hence the nomenclature “Cyber Skull”.

Priced at S$16,700, the BR 01 Cyber Skull is limited to a production run of 500 pieces. It is undoubtedly a cool watch, albeit it might be controversial for some.

Ulysse Nardin Freak X

The Ulysse Nardin Freak is a game changer in the horological scene. First launched in 2001, the Freak was an experimental piece that brought us many different technological breakthroughs within the industry. It is not just about the geeky bits – it has an amazing architecture to match as well.

Extending the Freak line-up is the Freak X – a modern interpretation of the collection that was launched in 2019. The 43mm timepiece features a flying carousel and a super-lightweight balance wheel in silicium, reinforced with nickel flyweights and stabilising micro-blades. Overall, the Freak X still maintains the avant-garde look, but it is certainly a tad more palatable as compared to the polarising Freak.

Prices of the Freak X begin at S$40,300. While some of the purist collectors may deem that a true “Freak” should not have a crown, we still think that the Freak X offers collectors a highly unusual and compelling timepiece that definitely stands out from the crowd.

Concluding Thoughts

These are watches that are radically different from what one would normally associate with a timepiece, and undoubtedly it will not be everyone’s cup of tea. But we cannot deny that these watches are rather interesting – especially for some that are relatively accessible in terms of pricing.

We hope that more watch manufacturers will take a leaf out of the book from some of these timepieces. Granted, more established brands might find it challenging to do something radical (since it may go against the brand’s design language or identity), but we have also seen successes such as the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk, or the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time.

We hope that you have enjoyed this week’s article. As usual, do let us know what your thoughts on our selection, as well as some of the watches that you reckon deserve a spot on the list.