Michel Parmigiani celebrated his 74th birthday on December 2 this year, and as is the tradition, the maison released an extraordinary watch. This year, it is the Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse. A rather interesting minute repeater in the purest tradition.
Release information with commentary in italics.
New: Parmigiani Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse
The Parmigiani Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse has a retail price of SGD 1,250,000 inclusive of GST.
Commentary
The Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse is a rather special watch, and the first in a series of 5 unique pieces. Each Amoriale Mysterious Repeater will feature a different aesthetics. For this 2024 release, the minute repeater goes way back to its purest roots. First created to be able to tell the time in the dark, these were the days before electric light or lume, the invention was a way for the owner to know what time it is in the dark by commanding the repeater to strike out the hours, quarters and minutes.
In this tradition, the Armoriale’s dial is unusual. It is a medallion in a pastel green on a translucent enamel grand feu over a delicate guilloché pattern. And time is not told on the face side of the watch. This is unusual, but not the first time a repeater is made in its purest sense with no way to read the time without striking the watch. Beat Haldimann makes a repeater with no display of the hour and minutes, though a central tourbillon can be used for the seconds. But the only practical way to tell what time it is is to command the watch to strike.
Thus the Amoriale is similar, but the Amoriale does have a time display. Just not on the dial side. For that you will need to flip the watch over.
On the case back, the hours and minutes are displayed using two wandering markers (notated as H and M) travelling around a circular slit on the back. The dial is a polished disc of Guatemalan white jade, carrying the markers in hand-applied 18ct gold rhodium-plated appliques. Over this is a central medallion, also adorned with a hand guilloché pattern.
The case is also a new design, featuring Doric columns and the Golden Ratio, a geometrical ratio which is special to Michel.
The movement is a special rendition by Audemars Piguet Le Locle (Renaud et Papi), as is usually the case for Parmigiani. Though a fully independent manufacture, the maison has never made their repeaters in-house, but always worked with either Renaud et Papi or with Christophe Claret for the minute repeater ebauche, and finishing the movement completely in PF’s own facilities.
This way, they ensure that there is no need to re-invent the wheel, and the value addition is where it is best applied – at the finishing. For this watch, the movement chosen uses a cathedral gong, where the gongs are made to curve around the case more than one. This is an aesthetic choice, sonically. As the longer gongs feature a stronger resonance, with a deeper tone and a longer decay.
Release information
WHEN ART RESONATES: A TRIBUTE TO MICHEL PARMIGIANI
In keeping with tradition, Parmigiani Fleurier unveils an extraordinary horological creation on December 2nd, Michel Parmigiani’s birthday. This year, they present the Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse, a ground-breaking masterpiece that merges artistic beauty with exceptional acoustic engineering, defying conventional norms. Designed in an ultra-limited edition, this masterpiece pays homage to Michel Parmigiani’s vision and the Maison’s expertise, combining magic and innovation within a white gold and enamel masterpiece. The first in a series of five unique pieces, each Armoriale Mysterious Repeater is meant to be different, personalized in its aesthetics, marking a milestone in the history of contemporary watchmaking.
Guido Terreni, CEO Parmigiani Fleurier.“We created the Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse to transcend the simple act of telling time, inviting its owner to connect with time purely through sound, honoring the original purpose of minute repeaters—to tell time in the dark, long before electricity. While the ear listens, the eye is free to fully appreciate the beauty of the artistry of our master craftsmen. Each strike to becomes a profound connection to the mystery of chiming watches in its purest form.”
Michel Parmigiani, Fondateur et Maître Horloger“In nature, every form, every pattern bears the imprint of perfection—a perfection found in the spirals of a pinecone, where the golden ratio and the Fibonacci sequence intertwine to reveal the harmony of the world. With the Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse, we wished to pay homage to these universal symmetries, to celebrate the natural elegance that inspires each of our creations, and to remind us that ultimate beauty lies in the timeless echo of nature’s laws.”
ICONIC BY NATURE: A NEW PARMIGIANI FLEURIER CASE
The Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse features a meticulously crafted 42mm white gold case designed exclusively for this unique model. It celebrates the aesthetic principles cherished by Michel Parmigiani, with design elements inspired by Doric columns and the Golden Ratio, underscoring the geometric precision and timeless elegance of classical architecture. Every detail, from the case to the intricately engraved pin buckle, embodies the pursuit of harmony and aesthetic perfection that defines the Maison Parmigiani Fleurier.
THE MYSTERY OF THE SECRET DIAL
The Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse does not reveal its secrets at a glance. Unlike a traditional watch, the Armoriale conceals the time on its reverse side, dedicating its front surface entirely to artistic craftsmanship. The pastel green translucent enamel grand feu displays a finely guilloché pattern, further enhanced by delicate engravings of a pinecone, a symbol of inspiration for Michel Parmigiani and a metaphor for infinity. Upon turning the watch, the wearer discovers the rose gold hour and minute hands discreetly placed on the back of the case.
This back dial, adorned with a disk of Guatemalan white jade and featuring circular indices, harmonizes with the jade’s natural elegance. The “secret” dial bestows an introspective and personal character to the watch, making checking the time an intimate and privileged experience.
EMOTION AND INTENSITY: THE POWER OF THE CATHEDRAL GONG
Historically, the minute repeater provided a way to tell time in the dark before the advent of artificial lighting by chiming the hours and minutes on demand. This intricate mechanism, featuring a precise system of hammers and gongs, offers a sound-based method of telling time, embodying the highest refinement in watchmaking. By listening to each strike, the wearer can discern the hours, quarters, and minutes through distinct, precisely tuned sounds, each resonating with clarity and purity.
The Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse is distinguished by its “cathedral” gongs, which are extra-long and wrap around the movement almost twice. This technical choice prolongs the resonance of each sound, delivering a rich and deep tone reminiscent of grand cathedral bells. Each hammer is engineered to strike with millimetric precision, ensuring optimal sound intensity. The cathedral sound amplifies the emotional impact, transforming each note into one filled with mystery and depth, an echo resonating beyond time.
MANUALLY WOUND MINUTE REPEATER CREATED FOR MICHEL PARMIGIANI
Inside the Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse, a meticulously crafted manual winding movement by Renaud Papi powers the watch. Comprising 392 components and boasting a 72-hour power reserve, this movement ensures unparalleled clarity and tonal purity. The cathedral gongs, securely fixed to the movement, enhance resonance, while the hollowed-out back and sides of the case naturally amplify the sound. Additionally, a striking regulator ensures smooth, uninterrupted sound, maintaining a steady rhythm in the chimes.
The assembly of this movement into the case represents a technical challenge of the highest order. The precise, millimetric fitting ensures optimal tension and direct sound transmission, with each component calibrated to maximize sound quality and maintain precise timekeeping.
THE WATCH BOX: A RESONANCE AMPLIFIER
Parmigiani Fleurier has envisioned a bespoke watch box for the Armoriale, featuring a resonator crafted from Risoud spruce wood, renowned for its superior acoustic properties and beloved by luthiers worldwide. This elegant box enhances each sound, adding depth and richness to the Minute Repeater’s sound.
By placing the watch at various points within the case, the owner can modulate the resonance, creating a tailored auditory experience that highlights the craftsmanship of the artisans and the horological mastery of Parmigiani Fleurier. Parmigiani Fleurier offers owners of the Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse a rare sensory experience, where the seen and unseen, the heard and felt, merge to celebrate time.
PARMIGIANI L’ARMORIALE RÉPÉTITION MYSTÉRIEUSE PRODUCT TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
REFERENCE: pfh990-2010001-300181 * One-of-a-kind
FUNCTIONS: Hour, minute, minutes repeater
HANDS: Hours and minutes: 18ct gold
STRAP: Taupe hand-stitched alligator leather, double-sided * Closure: 18ct rose gold pin buckle
CALIBER: PF355 – MANUAL WINDING MOVEMENT with minute repeater flywheel
Power reserve: 72 hours * Frequency: 21,600 Vph (3Hz) * Jewels: 35 * No. of components: 392
Diameter: 30 mm * Thickness: 6.55 mm
Decoration: Côtes de Genève, hand-bevelled and Perlage
DIAL: Material: Jade from Guatemala * Color: White * Finishing: Polished * Indices: hand-applied 18ct gold rhodium-plated appliques
CASE Material: 18ct white gold * Finishing: Polished and engraved * Diameter: 41.6 mm * Thickness: 12.65 mm * Crown: Ø 6,4 mm with “Grand feu” enamel * Glass: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire * Front case: hand-engraved with hand-guilloché and “Grand feu” enamel * Engraving on case back: serial number, “PARMIGIANI FLEURIER”, Swiss made and Pièce unique * Water resistance: 10 m
