Zenith collaborates with iconic Japanese bag brand Porter to release a fresh take on their Pilot Collection. This is a surprisingly coherent new direction taken by both these brands.
Press Release information with commentary in italics.
Zenith partners with Porter for a new Pilot Collection
The Zenigh Pilot Porter collection is released with two launch models:
- Central Automatic Ref. 49.4001.3620/63.I001 retailing at SGD 16,400
- Big Date Flyback Ref. 49.4001.3652/63.I001 with a retail of SGD 22,400
Both are limited editions of 500 pieces each. Prices include GST.
Commentary
Interesting collaboration between Zenith and a Japanese brand Porter Yoshida Kaban. Porter makes their bags in Japan and in durable nylon material. They have chosen a khaki colour scheme for the two launch models, though from the photographs we received, the watches look like a military olive green. Two models are released viz an automatic with central seconds hand and a chronograph (after all this is Zenith!).
Both models follow the redesigned Zenith Pilot playbook. A base model which is automatic winding with central seconds and a flyback chronograph with big date. Both are released with ceramic cases, and dials which feature horizontal grooves. Orange accents complete the picture, making for absolutely handsome. We reviewed the Big Date Flyback Chronograph steel case in regular collection in 2023 here.
Release details
ZENITH and iconic Japanese bag brand PORTER have come together for an unexpected yet totally coherent collaboration around the theme of travel. Together, the pair have reimagined two ZENITH PILOT models in khaki ceramic, along with a specially tailored bag made by PORTER exclusively for ZENITH: The PILOT Automatic and PILOT Big Date Flyback chronograph, each limited to 500 pieces.
The art of travel. The pursuit of pleasure in the journey rather than the destination. Since the earliest days of aviation, ZENITH has accompanied those who saw the open skies as a new world to explore with its specialized watches and instruments, going as far back as 1888 when ZENITH’s founder Georges-Favre Jacot saw the potential of aviation and decided to trademark “Pilote” in French, followed shortly by “Pilot”. The ZENITH PILOT collection is the brand’s longest running collection and has largely shaped the world of aviation watches. PORTER, a brand founded by Japanese manufacturer Yoshida & Co. in 1962, has become an established name both domestically in Japan and across the world, renowned for its minimal and functional yet meticulously crafted bags and accessories. Named after the traditional luggage porters found in hotels, PORTER excels in its use of high-quality materials and its attention to the smallest details to create highly coveted items, with a heavy influence from military designs. Coming together to celebrate their shared values and passion for travel was a natural union.
Relaunched in 2023 as a totally revamped line, the ZENITH PILOT collection draws inspiration from the entire span of aviation – past and present. The essential codes of durability, legibility and intuitiveness are respected in the modern reincarnation of the PILOT collection, which serves as the perfect canvas for this collaboration with PORTER. Combining a utilitarian approach with contemporary design elements, the result is unmistakably ZENITH. Now, across two limited editions, the distinctive PORTER touch is added to these modern classics.
The first piece in this collaborative limited-edition series is the PILOT Automatic PORTER Edition. The 40mm case with a distinct flat-top round bezel is crafted exclusively in a khaki ceramic, with an olive tone that recalls one of the signatures colours of PORTER’s bags. With its entirely matte finished surface, the case takes on a decidedly rugged look. The black PVD steel oversized crown, a defining feature of ZENITH PILOT watches, takes on an edgy angular form, while remaining easy to grip and operate – even with gloves on.
The textured, grooved dial recalls the corrugated metal sheets that made up the fuselage of many older aircrafts. Done in a khaki tone matching the case, the dial is signed both ZENITH and PORTER. Just for this special edition, the hour, minute and second hand are done in a bright orange tone that adds contrast and legibility to the dial while also recalling the orange interior of many PORTER bags, which in turn is inspired by the reverse side of aviation jackets for rescue visibility. The oversized luminescent Arabic numerals are fashioned in a sleek font and are applied as metal markers filled with white Super-LumiNova. At 6 o’clock above the date window with a white on khaki date wheel, the luminescent hour marker takes the form of a flat white line, recalling the artificial horizon instrument in plane. A source of pride for the Manufacture, the dial is signed “Pilot”, as ZENITH remains the first and only brand to hold the rights to mark its dials with the term.
Visible through the black PVD steel case back and specially emblazoned sapphire crystal with the PORTER logo, is the El Primero 3620 high-frequency manufacture movement. Its power reserve of 60 hours is reached by minds of a blackened oscillating weight that resembles an “artificial horizon” dashboard instrument, which informs the pilot of the aircraft’s orientation relative to the Earth’s horizon.
Completing the look, the PILOT Automatic PORTER Edition comes with two straps. The first, using a durable nylon fabric supplied by PORTER, is a khaki nylon strap with orange Velcro elements, with the signature PORTER stitched logo. The second is a khaki cordura-effect rubber strap with a black PVD steel folding buckle. The straps can be easily interchanged using the strap’s quick-release system, requiring no tools.
The second part of this sky-high collaboration is the PILOT Big Date Flyback PORTER Edition. In the same aesthetic as the three-hand version, the 42.5mm matte khaki ceramic case is set with black PVD pushers and crown. Equipped with the latest generation of the El Primero automatic high-frequency chronograph calibre, this version made exclusively for the PILOT model is endowed with two functions that are highly prized by aviators: the big date and the flyback function.
Designed with easy readability in mind, the textured khaki dial features orange hands for the timekeeping as well as the chronograph functions, with the chronograph’s 30-minute counter featuring alternating orange and white outlines to make it easier to distinguish between the 5-minute marks. The oversized date display with white numerals on khaki disks is operated by a cutting-edge patented compliant mechanism, which advances and stabilizes both of the Big Date’s wheels in less than 0.03 seconds. Originally conceived for aviators who wore thick sheepskin gloves, the flyback function allows the chronograph function to be reset to zero and restarted by a single push of a button, simplifying the pilot’s operations, and offering the possibility to record consecutive times without having to stop and restart.
The El Primero 3652 automatic high-frequency chronograph calibre with its “artificial horizon” rotor is visible through the display back with the rectangular PORTER logo on the underside of the sapphire crystal. Like its three-hand counterpart, the PILOT Big Date Flyback PORTER Edition comes with both a khaki nylon velcro strap by PORTER and a khaki cordura-effect rubber strap with a black PVD steel folding buckle, both fitted with a quick-release attachment.
Of course, this history-making collaboration wouldn’t be complete without a bag or accessory by the Japanese brand. Just for ZENITH and these two limited edition PILOT models, PORTER designed a new messenger bag into which the watch box is fitted. In the brand’s signature khaki colour on the outside, the interior was also developed exclusively for ZENITH in the Manufacture’s signature blue recalling the night sky. The bag is signed both PORTER and ZENITH.
The PILOT Automatic PORTER Edition and PILOT Big Date Flyback PORTER Edition are limited to 500 pieces each, available exclusively from ZENITH physical and online boutiques around the world.
Zenith Pilot Porter launch collection specifications
