Another interesting collaboration from Louis Erard. This time with Cédric Johner, an independent watchmaker with his own brand Abyss. The resulting collaboration is the new Louis Erard x Cédric Johner Le Régulateur. We managed to get a hands-on with the pre-release watch earlier, and bring you this review.
New and Reviewed: Louis Erard x Cédric Johner Le Régulateur
The Louis Erard x Cédric Johner Le Régulateur is available in two variations. One in blue and the other in mauve. Both are limited editions of 170 pieces each. Retail is set at SGD 6,460 at Watches of Switzerland in Singapore, inclusive of GST. Swiss recommended retail is CHF 4,000 before taxes.
The backstory
Cédric Johner is an independent who works with his hands. He began as an apprentice jeweller at Chopard, but he is also trained as a watchmaker. And began to strike out on his own immediately after completing his apprenticeship. He made mainly bespoke pieces. Jewellery, bracelets, cases and complete watches. He also started his own brand with a case he designed himself. He named the case shape, which he calls the Abyss. The unique look of the case is not only in the rather shapely tonneau shape of the case itself, but in the hexagonal opening for the sapphire crystal.
Thus, with the combined creative force of Manuel Emch, Artistic Director and CEO of Louis Erard and Cédric Johner, the new Le Régulateur is born. The resultant watch is rather interesting.
The case, dial and hands
The case is based on the standard Le Régulateur case that Louis Erard uses for their collection. But instead of a circular opening on the sapphire glass, the bezel opening is hexagonal. The hand of Cédric Johner is evident. The resultant watch looks unusual at first glance, like something is off. But once the design settles in, it exudes charm and uniqueness.
The dial itself is special. And unlike any other Louis Erard watch. The dial plate features a guilloché decoration, in a sunray pattern from the center. The hour sub dial features a stylised, exaggerated Roman numerals, printed on a concave disc. This font is unique to Cédric Johner, and used in his Abyss creations as well. The hands for the hours, minutes are also taken from Abyss and is now leaf shaped and a small departure from the fir hands typically used by Louis Erard.
Even the colour options offered are interesting. The first is a rather standard PVD blue. But on the alternate is a rather beautiful mauve hue, unlike any we have seen before. It is quite subtle, but we think, very beautiful.
The movement
The movement on Le Régulateur remains the same Sellita SW 266-1 calibre that is used in all other Louis Erard regulator movements. The movement is in what the industry calls élaboré grade, which is specified as “meticulously decorated”.
Our judgement is a bit more conservative, as is our usual style. We think the movement is finished nicely without the haute horlogerie decorative accoutrements. The special Johner touch is in the oscillating weight, which is hand decorated by Cédric himself. These are seen as punch divots on the inner half of the rotor. Louis Erard claims that each piece is made with 230 divot beads, each made by a single punch of a rounded tip.
Concluding thoughts
Another beautiful watch launched by Louis Erard’s many collaborations. This one has strong DNA elements of Cédric’s Abyss design language being used. And makes a very unique product. The Blue is very nice and classical, but we are partial to the Mauve for the unique and somewhat subtle tone it provides.
On the wrist, like the other Louis Erard Le Régulateur 39mm cased designs, the watch wears well, and should be comfortable all day long.
Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Cédric Johner specifications
Mauve ref. 85249AA02.BVA153 & Blue ref. 85249AA01.BVA150
Limited edition of 178 pieces each ref.
Movement Automatic regulator, Sellita SW266-1 calibre, 11½’’’, Ø25.60 mm, height: 5.60 mm, 31 jewels, 28,800 VpH (4Hz), élaboré grade movement, meticulously decorated, special openworked oscillating weight decorated by Cédric Johner, approx. 38 hours of power reserve
Functions HMS: Hour hand in counter at 12 o’clock, central minute hand, seconds hand in counter at 6 o’clock
Case Polished stainless steel, Ø39 mm, lug width: 20 mm, lug to lug: 45.90 mm, thickness: 12.82 mm, 3 pieces, domed hexagonal sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, movement visible through the transparent black caseback, water resistant up to a pressure of 5 bars (50 m/165 ft), signature fir tree crown
Dial Mauve OR Blue PVD dial base with sunray pattern, hour flange at 12 o’clock and seconds flange at 6 o’clock, circular satin-finished in anthracite with polished angles, white transfers
Hands Polished rhodium-plated leaf-shaped hands
Bracelet Grey grained calf leather bracelet with tone-on-tone stitching, black grained calf leather lining, polished stainless steel pin buckle, ergot bars for quick strap change.
Dimensions: 20/18mm width, 80/115 mm length
Collaboration Watch developed in collaboration with Cédric Johner in a limited edition of 178 pieces
