Five of the best independent English watchmakers

We have explored the Japanese watchmakers. We have also touched on the French. It is now time to turn to the English.

After last week’s discussion about French independent watchmakers, and your interesting interaciton and comments, we cross the channel and land at the United Kingdom. We wanted to go and explore the English watchmaking traditions. After all, England, especially London, was the seat of watchmaking together with the French before the craft finally settled in the current mecca of Switzerland. From this island, we have the many of the original thinkers of the craft of measuring time. From the likes of Thomas Tompion (1639–1713), Daniel Quare (1648–1724), George Graham (1673–1751, John Harrison (1693–1776) who established the London as a watchmaking center. Later watchmakers like Thomas Mudge (1715–1794) and John Arnold (1736–1799) carried on with this tradition. This was before Daniel JeanRichard brought watchmaking to Switzerland near Le Locle in 1691. JeanRichard was born in 1672 in Bressels, near La Sagne, in the Jura Mountains in what is now the Swiss canton of Neuchâtel. But all this time, the watchmaking capitals were in London and Paris. Even Abraham Louis Breguet (1747–1823), who was Swiss by birth, practiced his craft in Paris. These days, it would be difficult to argue that the modern spiritual home of watchmaking is anywhere but Switzerland. If at all, possibly the Japanese, the Germans or even the French may have more watchmaking than good ole England.

But watchmaking is alive in England. Though not as robust, there are a handful of interesting English brands. Some of whom make the entire watch in the United Kingdom, but also others who use parts and components imported from overseas, be it Switzerland or from Asia. And yet others have their headquarters in England, but manufacture in Switzerland and elsewhere. This list is loose in this respect. As long as the design, or headquarters is English in nature, it is a consideration. With this liberal approach we are also including the rest of the UK.

Charles Frodsham

We begin this list with Charles Frodsham. A company which is the longest continuously trading firm of chronometer manufacturers in the world. Established in 1843 in London, the firm still operating from Bury Street, London. The firm offers restoration services, and currently their catalog carries one single wristwatch – the Double Impulse Chronometer, which we reviewed in detail in 2019.

I can do no better than to repeat my own words from the review. This is a fascinating watch. A veritable study in restraint, which that stiff upper lip, unfazed by anything which is the very core to the English character. A testament in technical achievement clothed in an unassumingly quiet package. It is elegant and as well presented as an Englishman in a bespoke Savile Row suit. The design is sober but superbly elegant. And like that Savile Row suit, there is more than meets the eye. It is the product of careful planning, meticulous execution and a very high level of skill. With a movement that is peerless in the technical virtuosity of the double impulse escapement a marvel. 

Garrick

We have followed Dave Brailsford and his brand Garrick almost since they started in 2016. Our first hands on encounter was in 2019, when we first handled the Series 2 watch in person. Garrick is now producing Series 7 watches, though the earlier series up to Series 2 are still available. Our pick from the list is the one we are most familiar with – the Series 2 from circa 2019, though we also have some handling experience with the Series 3, Series 3 Mk2 and the Regulator MK II.

They make two movements in-house. The UT-G and the S5. We are familiar with the UT-G, which powers the Regulator, S1, S2 and S3 timepieces. This is a remarkable hand-wound movement which enshrines many of the traditional English concepts. The movement is frosted and polished by hand, and features Garrick’s own Trinity balance. The rim of the balance wheel is made of a patented metal alloy called Sircumet which is employed for the first time within a wristwatch.

Garrick is a relatively small and young brand, but we are impressed with the current works from this Norwich-based watch manufacturer. And one which we think, will continue to deliver interesting English styled watches in the future.

McGonigle Watches

Not really English, but Irish. These are the McGonigle brothers. Originally operating out of Neuchâtel, Stephen and John McGonigle began the McGonigle watches brand in 2006. Stephen has continued with the McGonigle brand name and operates from Switzerland, and John has returned to Ireland to found a new brand called Oileán. The McGonigle brand currently operates out of both Switzerland and Ireland. Stephen also recently launched another brand called Magon. His first watch is the Forsa which is inspired by the sport of Rugby, and features a movement from La Joux Perret, a rather traditional Swiss made column-wheel, automatic chronograph. Thus, our pick from the McGonigle stable would have to be the Tuscar Bánú. This watch is still available on the McGonigle catalog, and though is largely Swiss made, is the brainchild of the Irish brothers (and sister), and carries many classical Irish traits.

The watch is fiercely Irish. With the strong Celtic spirit alive and well, even as expressed in a timepiece. The design is quirky, and certainly cannot be mistaken for being Swiss, though it was made when the McGonigle brothers were domicile in both Switzerland and Ireland. The Celtic elements are strong, from the pincer like claws which serve as the balance cock, to the engravings on the movement.

The movement was designed from the ground up with assistance of Mr. Alberto Papi, father to the Guilio Papi of Renaud et Papi (now Audemars Piguet Le Locle). More information on Alberto Papi can be found here (needs Facebook access as this is a Note on McGronigle Watches’ FB page).

Underd0g

We decided to do the whimsical and add the Underd0g as one of our picks. The creator Richard Benc is English, and the company is based in London. And we have always liked Richard’s creations. The same watch as we have picked here, the Strawberries & Cream was also included in our Summer picks. Though any of his other creations will do well here. Currently, the Underd0g website shows that there no watches on offer, as all have been sold out (yes, including Strawberries and Cream), but there are promises more will come soon. And we are sure, whatever they launches, the thematic DNA will stay strong.

Always a fun watch. Relatively inexpensive, though considerably more than a Swatch, as it features a mechanical chronograph. And those wild bright colours on the dial. Totally underscoring their brand name of being the underdog, also a very English trait. England has always seen themselves as the underdog. A small island nation fighting against the world and succeeding. Their struggle with superior forces of Rome, Vikings, Normans, Spanish, Napoleon and their absolute stance against the Nazis. On the other hand, though, if we think of the British Empire, spanning across the world, perhaps not.

But back to the Underd0g brand. The brand is truly an underdog, and have gone against the grain. Lije the use of the fruit theme for brilliant colours on the dial. Like using Chinese made movements which are virtual copies of the Swiss chronographs whose copyright has expired, the watches feature interesting mechanical movements. And using designs of children to benefit children. We can get behind that cause.

Roger Smith

And we round up this selection with Roger Smith. Roger operates out of the Isle of Man, which is in the UK, but not in England, though Roger himself is English. Roger is a devoted disciple of the late George Daniels (1926-2011), the man credited of being the greatest English watchmakers of the modern era. George had spent his career making all his watches completely by himself and completely by hand (using tools but not computers). A total of 23 pocket watches and 2 wrist watches as well as a number of clocks were completed.

In 1990, Roger took a watch which he made using instructions from Daniels’ book Watchmaking and presented it to George. He had made this first pocket watch in his spare time. George told him to start again because the watch looked “handmade” and not “created”. Roger took that as an encouragement, and returned to make his second pocket watch. This took 5 years and by then he had perfected all the 32 skills required to design and make a watch in the Daniels Method. George approved of this watch, and took him in as an employee in his workshops. This watch was auctioned by Phillips in New York Auction EIGHT June 2023 for USD 4.9million. Curiously, Hajime Asaoka also mastered the skills to design and make watches from the same book.

Roger has a rather extensive collection of 5 models, all named in series. The one which we have the most experience with is the Series II, so it is this watch which receive our recommendation. The styling is distinctly English, which is to say that even at a glance, it is easily recognisable that this is not a Swiss watch. It is a very studied, and very refined approach to watchmaking highlighting the traditions of the English style with immaculate attention to detail.

Concluding thoughts

So there is our list. Five of what we feel are the best of the independent English watchmakers. This is picked from a larger list, which though more inclusive, is far from exhaustive. The others whom we considered included the following:

• anOrdian. We did take a close look at their anOrdain Model 2 mkII. And a high consideration, but perhaps as no.6 on this list. And a possible swap for Underd0g. And though we traditionally carry 6 watch in a listicle, we decided to stop at 5 for this one.
• Derek Pratt. An English watchmaker, but who practiced his craft in Delamont in Switerland, Derek is considered by many to be the equal in skills to George Daniels. But the watch in consideration is one which was created posthumously by Luca Soprana, with the support of Derek’s family. It is completely Swiss Made, though contains elements which may be ascribed as traditional English style, but is mostly the aesthetics practiced by Derek in Switzerland. The style is perhaps best described as having some elements taken from traditional English and blended with Breguet inspiration with a serving of Urban Jurgensen. Of course, this interesting styling does not take anything away from the spectacular work on the timepiece.
• Rebecca Struthers. Perhaps one of the more prominent English watchmakers in recent years. She gained fame as the first person to achieve a PhD in horology in 2017. With her husband, she started Struthers Watchmakers in 2012. I have met with Rebecca in London some years ago and had an opportunity to examine the Project 248, their first watch built from scratch. BTW 248 stands for “two watchmakers, four hands, and an 8mm watchmaker’s lathe.” But I don’t have enough experience with the watch to have more to say about it than that I have handled it briefly.
• Peter Speake. Formerly one half of Speake-Marin. The S-M brand, was helmed by Peter, who is English. But the brand was based in Switzerland. The brand has since been renamed Speake Marin, and Peter is completely independent again. He consults with the industry and is doing special projects. Peter currently commutes between London and Geneva.
• Bremont. We are relatively familiar with Bremont watches. But though they seem to be still active and producing watches, they seem to be slow in responding to questions and requests. Perhaps Davide Cerato, who took over as CEO in May this year, is still in the midst of reorganising the company. We liked some of the new releases from WWG 24, particularly the Terra Nova Dual-Time Tourbillon, but requests for press release information went unanswered. We took photographs of the watch at the workshops of Olivier Mory in La Chaux-de-Fonds.
• Christopher Ward. As they operate only as an online shop, we are not familiar with the brand, though have heard good things about the watches. We endeavour to bring you hands-on reports and detailed reviews soon when we are able to examine and photograph the watch.
• Mr. Jones Watches. We featured The Golden Hour on these pages, and have been in discussion with this London based house. We have requested a visit to their manufacture, which we understand where they print their interesting dials. And will report back on what we discover then.
• for a brief moment, we even toyed at Greubel Forsey, as Stephen Forsey, whom we absolutely admire, is English. But decided that Greubel Forsey is Swiss, and should be treated as such.
• we also briefly considered Sinclair Harding. But they only make clocks, and fabulous as their works are, we need to limit our coverage to only wrist watches. However, if you fancy clocks, Robert Bray and his family hand makes these magnificent devices and are worth a look and consideration.

What are your thoughts? Which other English watchmaker do you think we should consider for a list such as this?