Following the relative success of the Skin Diver, launched in 2021 after the brand’s creative redirection, Dietrich had decided to take a step further with yet another addition to the repertoire.
Dietrich ED-1
The Dietrich ED-1 is priced at S$2,307
The ED-1 is the eponymous timepiece (ED stood for “Emmanuel Dietrich”) of the microbrand. The idea came about with Emmanuel, who had tried to conceptualise a timepiece with what he considers to be the “perfect everyday watch”.
Beyond the main ethos of an “ultimate everyday watch”, Emmanuel had also incorporated other elements into the timepiece – notably the DNA and design cues that represent Dietrich over the last decade.
We have had the chance to spend a couple of weeks with this timepiece, and here are our thoughts on the latest timepiece from one of the pioneers in the microbrand scene.
The Case, Dial, and Hands
The watch features a 39mm stainless steel case, which is rather palatable and sits nicely on the scale (for being neither too big, nor too small).
One of the key elements that sets Dietrich apart from most watch manufacturers, especially within the microbrand scene, is its design. The ED-1 features a rather organic rounded case, which reminds us of holding a smooth pebble. It is also fitted with a rounded hexagon bezel, which lends a really nice touch to the watch. We really like how there are no sharp edges on the case (sans the area that runs across the lugs), which makes it quite a treat, tactile-wise. The combination of brushed and polished surfaces on the case, additionally, gives the watch a nice contrast as well.
Next, we move on to the strap. Each watch is delivered with a metal bracelet, as well as a leather strap from Delugs which is rather supple and well-made.
The metal bracelet is similar to the one on the Skin Diver which we have reviewed previously, although we were also informed that the bracelet had undergone some improvement from the previous iteration. Similar to our previous take, the bracelet – which features hexagon-shaped links – is quite stunning visually, and it is definitely something that we do not expect from a microbrand. We also like how Dietrich had incorporated chamfering on the edge of the links, to give the bracelet a contrasting effect. In addition, the bracelet is extremely comfortable on the wrist. However, if we have to nitpick, we would have preferred that the edges of the links are smoothened, to add further refinement to the bracelet.
The dial of the ED-1 is another highlight of the timepiece. The timepiece features a contemporary take on the sector dial, in either the “Spruce Green” or “Crowberry Blue” configuration in fumé style. Dietrich had opted for the “sandwich” dial for the ED-1 to improve the luminosity in low-light conditions. Other highlights of the ED-1 include the Dietrich-styled hands, a crosshair on the inner sector of the dial, and a date window at the 3 o’clock position for those who opted for the variant with the date function.
The Movement: Sellita SW200
The Dietrich ED-1 is fitted with the ubiquitous Sellita SW200. The movement needs no further introduction; it features a self-winding movement with a power reserve of approximately 38 hours and beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph.
Finishing-wise, the ED-1 is pretty industrial. There is nothing to shout about decorations here, and it is understandable for a timepiece that is priced at this level. Functionality, over form, is definitely the priority in this case – which is very reasonable for a daily workhorse.
Competitive Landscape
The Dietrich ED-1 is priced at S$2,307. At this price point, there are a few other options that collectors may potentially consider.
The first watch that the ED-1 will be inevitably compared against will be the Skin Diver. The Skin Diver was launched back in 2021, with a relatively simpler design and lesser dial elements. The watch also features a similar stainless-steel bracelet (albeit Dietrich mentioned that the bracelet in the ED-1 had been upgraded). The key argument is that the Skin Diver was priced at US$1,050 (approximately S$1,390) when it debuted back in 2021, while the new ED-1 is priced substantially higher versus its predecessors. Collectors will certainly take into consideration if the new dial, case, and additional goodies are worth the additional premium (not forgetting, inflation as well).
For collectors who are looking for a modestly priced timepiece from a microbrand, the Estrowerk Estro-One Cobalt might be something that is worth considering. The 40mm timepiece features a highly contemporary design, with a rather uncommon regulator-style dial configuration. This particular variant, with the electric blue dial, is quite a looker in our opinion. The watch is powered by the Miyota 82S7, and prices begin at US$680 (approximately S$900) for the variant with the rubber strap.
Rounding up the list, we have the highly popular Tissot PRX. The PRX had gained a strong following from both seasoned and budding collectors alike, given its value proposition and relatively accessible price point. This is another suitable candidate for an “everyday” watch, with its sleek profile and clean design that is versatile enough for both casual and dressier occasions. Priced at S$1,000, it arguably offers one of the best value propositions within the realm of mechanical watches, although its popularity is also a double-edged sword – this timepiece is becoming a common sight.
Concluding Thoughts
After spending a couple of weeks with the Dietrich ED-1, we have to say that the watch indeed does live up to its ethos of being an “everyday watch”. The ED-1 – due to its modest size – sits rather nicely on our wrists, and it is very comfortable to wear over an extended period of time as well (personally, the preference is to wear the timepiece with the leather strap). It also does not look out of place with corporate wear, although certain enthusiasts might disagree with us otherwise.
What we also really like about the ED-1 is its non-conformist design. Most watches in the sub-S$2,000 price range, or timepieces from microbrands, follow a similar template or style. This is quite a breath of fresh air, and certainly something that we welcome warmly. Who says you cannot be creative within such a challenging perimeter?
Overall, we think that Dietrich had made a strong impression with this piece. The watch certainly challenges other microbrands to step up, and we think both the concept and execution are done pretty well. Granted, there are still some edges that can be smoothened out, but the ED-1 is certainly a valiant attempt that deserves recognition for doing things differently.
