Breguet re-expresses their timeless spirit with two new references in their Classique collection. Both in platinum. Both with black grand feu enamel dial.
Press Release details with commentary in italics.
New: Breguet Classique 5177 & Classique 7787
The Breguet Classique Ref. 5177PT/2N/9V6.01 retails for SGD 57,200, and the Breguet Classique Ref. 7787PT/2N/9VU retails for SGD 68,100. Prices are inclusive of GST.
Commentary
The novelties add platinum variants to the Classique 5177 and 7787 references.
In 2019, we reviewed the three hand with date version Ref. 5177 in white gold with a blue grand feu enamel dial as well as with a classical variant with guilloché dial.
The Classique 7787 novelty has also been released in a white gold case with white grand feu enamel dial which we reviewed in 2017. Other variants of both references are listed in the technical specifications section below.
The novelty here is the black enamel dial on a platinum case. The nobility of the platinum 950 case is now matched with the deep black grand feu enamel dial. The silver powdered markers make superb contrast to the dial, making legibility in good lighting conditions excellent. As there is no lume applied, legibility in the dark is compromised.
But these are dress watches, after all. And ultimate end game examples as such. And the watch is very elegant with the sleekness of the 39mm case with a matching thin case of either just 8.8mm or 10.3mm for the 5177 and 7787 respectively.
Release details
A face as black as night, resplendent under the glow of “Grand Feu” enamel – and for the first time in this collection – encased in a sheath of platinum, a noble metal and a symbol of excellence. The Classique de Breguet is dressed in black and silver to show the essential passage of time on reference 5177, complemented by the moon-phase and power-reserve indicator on reference 7787.
Abraham-Louis Breguet, stylist of the ages
When he opened his watchmaking workshop on the Île de la Cité in 1775, Abraham-Louis Breguet developed a new aesthetic approach in addition to the fantastic technical innovations that would earn him his reputation among a prestigious international clientele. In contrast to his peers who created objects with dials and boxes overloaded with decoration, the Neuchâtel native chose to free time from all embellishment, his main concern being the legibility of the indicators. Even if the hidden mechanisms are complex, telling the time must be as quick as it is intuitive.
Considered as the first watch designer, A.-L. Breguet honoured simplicity by reinventing the watch face sometimes enamelled in white, sometimes segmented by different guilloché motifs, and softened by the curves of Arabic or Roman numerals, which the slender Breguet hollow “moon” tip hands glide above. This artistic expression forms the contemporary foundations of the Classique collection, inspired by the pocket watches developed by the master and then his son Antoine Breguet in the 18th and 19th centuries, right down to the elegantly fluted case sides.
Classique, platinum and “Grand Feu” enamel united for eternity
Inscribing time in time was A.-L. Breguet’s objective, a desire pursued by Montres Breguet through modern creations that use precious materials with undeniable longevity.
The nobility of platinum
It was around the second half of the 18th century that platinum, which had been discovered almost 400 years earlier on the American continent, experienced a tremendous boom in Europe and, after conquering jewellery, gradually made its way into watchmaking. Nicknamed “the metal of kings”, this noble material crowns exceptional timepieces such as the Classique 5177 and Classique 7787.
Its alluring brilliant grey color is sometimes mistaken for white gold or silver. However, many of its qualities distinguish it from other natural minerals and iron alloys, such as its weight, malleability and above all its high resistance to magnetism and corrosion, making it a symbol of eternity. It is also hypoallergenic, and its weight gives it a strong presence on the wrist.
Faithfully continuing the physical characteristics of the collection, the cases – including the slim bezel, knurled crown, slender lugs and fluted case band – of these two new models are manufactured for the first time in platinum, 38mm in diameter and 8.8mm high for the Classique 5177, and 39mm in diameter and 10.3mm high for the Classique 7787.
The shimmer of “Grand Feu” enamel
Like platinum, “Grand Feu” enamel is reserved for haute horology pieces and exclusive models, and has an eternal value. Initially, it was used in watchmaking to protect the discs of dials, which were often victims of ageing due to natural light, dust particles and oxidation, as watches were by no means watertight before the middle of the 20th century.
This decorative technique, using a powder made from a host of minerals and metal oxides for color, amalgamated with a binder, applied to the dial base and then vitrified at a high temperature (between 800 and 1200°C), requires meticulous craftsmanship. Like a flame, it can be capricious, unpredictable, and untameable. In fact, several firings in a dedicated oven are necessary depending on the number of coats in order to fuse the elements and pigments, add depth, and obtain that unalterable shine – each firing presents a risk.
The purity of the essential
Coated with intense black “Grand Feu” enamel – one of the most difficult colors to work with – the smooth, uniform faces of these new Classiques are adorned with a set of Breguet Arabic numerals and a discreet timer in powdered silver to create a slight contrast. The rhodium-plated “moon” tip Breguet hands indicating the hours, minutes, and seconds enhances the contrast. Following the habits and customs of 18thth century watchmakers to guarantee the authenticity of a timepiece, these “Grand Feu” enamel dials reveal Breguet’s secret signature to the right of the center for the 7787 and between the center and 6 o’clock for the 5177.
The Classique 5177 is undoubtedly the closest pure expression of A.-L. Breguet’s stylistic philosophy, displaying the essentials of time accompanied by a “tone-on-tone” date window visible at 3 o’clock, while the Classique 7787 offers more comprehensive displays to suit individual needs.
An open downward fan, a comforting smile or the friendly profile of a crescent moon: the cut-out window showing the phases of the Earth’s natural satellite on Classique 7787 opens the door to romantic imagination. The night star, embodied by a hammered gold disc, appears against a starry blue sky, delivering its moods on a graduated scale over 29.5 days. It overlooks a power-reserve indicator hand in the lower part of the dial.
Manufacture calibres: precision and reliability
Heir to the technical expertise initiated by its founder, A.-L. Breguet, in Paris almost 250 years ago, the Maison Breguet continues to equip its watches with innovative, precise and reliable movements developed at its manufacture in the Vallée de Joux in the Swiss Jura. The proof is in the self-winding mechanical duo that powers the Classique 5177 and Classique 7787, visible through the sapphire crystal casebacks.
The 777 Q calibre: the essential
Vibrating at the standard frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, this movement – assembled from 237 components – incorporates a flat balance-spring made from silicon, a material resistant to wear, corrosion and magnetism adopted by Montres Breguet in 2006. Its rhodium-plated 18-carat gold oscillating weight is decorated with a hand-engraved “starry mosaic” motif and an exclusive design that echoes the words “Breguet special edition” engraved on the weight. It powers a unique barrel that provides up to 55 hours of power reserve when the watch is fully wound.
The 591 DRL calibre: realism
This movement, clocked at 4 Hz and comprising 221 components, delivers 38 hours of power reserve once wound by its rhodium-plated 22-carat gold rotor adorned with hand-made “barley grain” guilloché. The addition of a pinion on the moon-phase disc enables it to offer a realistic display of the cycle, i.e. 29.5303498 days instead of the 29.5 days generally offered by this type of complication, and therefore closer to the 29.53058888 days of the actual lunar revolution. The difference is therefore limited to one day after 348.7 years.
Breguet Classique 5177 Technical data
5177PT/2N/9V6.01
Key features Platinum case, black “Grand Feu” enamel dial, rhodium-plated Breguet “moon” tip centre hands, date window, automatic 777 Q calibre, oscillating weight with special decoration, leather strap with platinum pin buckle
Case Platinum 950 / 38mm diameter / 8.8mm thickness / Fluted case band / Sapphire crystal / 3-position crown, initialled B / Welded lugs / 20mm between lugs / Sapphire crystal, double anti-reflective / Water-resistant: 30m (3 bar)
Dial Black “Grand Feu” enamel / Hour markers with Arabic numerals and silvered powdered timer / Rhodium-plated “moon” tip Breguet hands / Date window, silvered on black background / Secret signature
Movement Calibre 777 Q, numbered and signed Breguet, 20 ¼ lines, 237 components, 26 rubies / Automatic winding / 18-carat rhodium-plated gold oscillating weight, special “starry mosaic” guilloché motif, “BREGUET EDITION SPECIALE” inscription / Frequency 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) / Silicon flat balance-spring, inverted lever with silicon lugs and silicon escapement / Single barrel / 55-hour power reserve
Indicators Hours, minutes, seconds in the centre / Date at 3 o’clock
Strap Black alligator leather, satin look / Platinum pin buckle
Variations White gold case, white “Grand Feu” enamel dial (ref. 5177BB/29/9V6)/ Rose gold case, white “Grand Feu” enamel dial (ref. 5177BR/29/9V6) / White gold case, blue “Grand Feu” enamel dial (ref. 5177BB/2Y/9V6) / Rose gold case, silvered guilloché dial (ref. 5177BR/15/9V6) / White gold case, guilloché silvered gold dial (ref. 5177BB/15/9V6)
Breguet Classique7787 Technical Data
7787PT/2N/9VU
Key features Platinum case, black “Grand Feu” enamel dial, rhodium-plated central Breguet “moon” tip hands, “realistic” moon-phase display, power-reserve indicator, automatic 591 DRL calibre, guilloché oscillating weight, leather strap with triple-blade folding clasp
Case Platinum 950 / 39mm diameter / 10.3mm thickness / Fluted case band / Sapphire crystal / 2 position crown, initialled B Pusher at 9 o’clock for setting the moon phases, rhodium-plated metal corrector stylus / Welded fasteners / Sapphire crystal, double anti-reflective / Water-resistant: 30m (3 bar)
Dial Black “Grand Feu” enamel / Hour markers with Arabic numerals and silvered powdered timer / Rhodium-plated “moon” tip Breguet hands / Rhodium-plated baton-type power reserve indicator hand / Moon phases window, blue lacquer disc, hammered gold moon,polished rhodium-plated gold stars, cycle scale / Secret signature
Movement Calibre 591 DRL, numbered and signed Breguet, 11 ½ lines, 221 components, 25 rubies / Automatic winding / Rhodium-plated 22-carat gold oscillating weight, “barley grain” guilloché / Frequency 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) / Flat balance-spring, anchor and escapement in silicon / 38-hour power reserve
Indicators Hours, minutes, seconds in the centre / Moon phases at 12 noon / Power reserve indicator at 5:30
Strap Black alligator leather, satin look / Platinum triple-blade folding clasp
Variations White gold case, white “Grand Feu” enamel dial (ref. 7787BB/29/9V6) ;/ Rose gold case, white “Grand Feu” enamel dial (ref. 7787BR/29/9V6)
