In recent years, we have witnessed a resurgence of vintage-inspired timepieces that pay homage to iconic designs from the past. These retro-style watches not only evoke nostalgia but also offer a unique blend of classic elegance and modern functionality. Today, we explore six retro-inspired watches that have captured the essence of their predecessors while incorporating contemporary twists.
Vintage revival: Guide to the ultimate retro-style watches from iconic brands
First, some definitions and ground rules. We use this as guides to pick the watch, to narrow the field of selection, so to speak. These iconic watches share common traits:
- Innovative designs addressing specific needs
- Enduring styles that transcend time
- Rich histories tied to exploration, science, and adventure
- Modestly priced watch within the collection
With this criteria, let’s crack on!
Luxury Brands Vintage inspired entry level collections
Watch 1: Tudor Heritage Black Bay
The Tudor Submariner was born out of a need for reliable, waterproof watches for divers. From day 1, Hans Wilsdorf had intended the Tudor brand to be the more budget friendly option to their ultimate watches which he branded Rolex. In 1954, Tudor introduced the Reference 7922, featuring a 37mm case and bidirectional rotating bezel. This pioneering design paved the way for modern dive watches. Our pick from the almost endless options in the Tudor Black Bay catalog is the latest Black Bay 58 GMT. We chose not to pick the entry level model because the GMT feature is so useful. And even with this on-board, the BB 58 GMT comes in at a relatively modest price of only SGD 6.6k on a steel bracelet.
We love the Coke styled watch, and the design. The gold accents on the bezel is a nice touch, and the watch retains the iconic Snowflake hands of the originals. And of course, we love the value.
Watch 2: Bell & Ross BR-X5
Though the Bell & Ross history is relatively young compared to the other maisons on this list, the X5 is an interesting iteration to the design language spoken by Bruno Belamich (Bell of Bell & Ross). The design first started with the basic rounded square case in the BR-03. This was evolved into the sporty elegant BR-05, with the latest iteration to the design as the BR-X5. All three models, from 03 to 05 and X5 are still on the Bell & Ross catalog today. Our pick from the BR-X5 collection is their latest offering in the form of the BR-X5 Racing.
The racing pedigree is all there. From the fuel gauge inspired power reserve indicator, to the smoked glass allowing a peek into the movement, and the use of titanium as the material in the multi-layered case to the Kenissi sourced BR-CAL.323. While the movement is manufactured for Bell & Ross by Kenissi, we do not see the same used in other watches, perhaps this is a BR exclusive caliber. Pricing wise, the BR-X5 Racing is steeper than the rest on this list, but still delivers considerable good value at SGD 15k, for a 500 piece limited edition.
Watch 3: Breitling Navitimer 41
The Breitling Navitimer was created in response to pilots’ needs for a reliable, functional watch. In 1952, Breitling introduced the Reference 806, featuring a slide rule bezel and chronograph functionality. This iconic design became synonymous with aviation. The Ref. 806 Re-Edition is the true to original model, but our choice is the more modern interpretation provided by the Navitimer 41, and our pick from the huge number of options available is the base automatic with the gorgeous ice blue dial on bracelet Ref. A17329171C1A1 (SGD 8.1k).
This is a legendary pilot’s watch, brought up to date by Breitling. The design is functional, with a rugged caliber 17 movement, which is based in either the ETA 2824-2 or Sellita SW200-1. Breitling makes the final adjustment and regulation to meet and obtain COSC certification. Of course, the Navitimer Chronographs are more iconic, but it is not their current base offering. If we expand the criteria, we will then claim the Ref. AB0139A71G1P1 B01 Chronograph (SGD 13k) as our champion. Price is still within an entry level budget, but here you get the in-house Cal. B01 from Breitling, and an equally gorgeous silver dial with blue accents.
Watch 4: Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic True Second
Everytime we think of JLC, the first watch that comes to mind would be their even more iconic Reverso. But for this list, we thought we’d take a look at the path less trodden, and for this we are recommending the Geophysic. The Geophysic was developed for scientists and explorers participating in the International Geophysical Year (1957-1958). This watch featured a unique design, magnetic resistance, and exceptional accuracy. Our pick is the 2015 re-edition of the Geophysic True Second. The current JLC catalog does not list any Geophysic.
The design is very appealing. Its proportions are near ideal, with the 39.5mm case being almost perfectly sized, even for 2024. The execution very very good. The movement, in-house Cal.770 which powers the watch is especially interesting. The seconde morte implementation of a remontoir is very interesting. The pricing is also of great interest. At launch, the retail price was SGD 13,300 for the steel cased version and in pink gold it costs SGD 25,900. Though discontinued, the watch has several options available on Chrono24 ranging from SGD 7k to SGD 10k for the steel variant.
If we had to pick one which still available new from JLC, then our choice must be the Reverso Monoface Classic, which currently retails at SGD 15k.
Watch 5: IWC Portugieser
The IWC Portugieser was born from a request by Portuguese businessmen for a precise, large wristwatch. In 1939, IWC created the Reference 325, featuring a 41.5mm case and Calibre 74 movement. This year, IWC revived the Portugieser lineup with the Eternal Calendar being a favourite of ours. But for this list, we lower our budget aspirations and go for the entry level Automatic, our choice from the many variants offered is the steel cased model with the silver moon dial with steel bracelet, Ref. IW501704. (SGD 20.5k).
The case is 42.5mm in diameter, in the classically beautiful Portugieser blueprint. The elegant case lines is complemented with the beautiful dial in blue with appliqué Arabic numerals and a bi-compax looking layout. But of course this is not a chronograph, the subsidiary seconds sub-dial overlaps the 9 o’clock marker and a power reserve sub-dial overlap the 3 o’clock. A date aperture punctuates the 6 o’clock marker. The movement is what IWC the Cal. 52011 with 168 hours of power reserve available. Automatic winding is by a huge rotor which doubles up as a decorative element through the case back.
Watch 6: Zenith El Primero Original 1969
The Zenith El Primero revolutionized chronograph watchmaking with its high-beat movement (36,000 vph). Introduced in 1969, the movement is a cult favourite by its own right, and continues to inspire many. As a base movement, it is the aspiration of many collectors who are starting out on their journey. Again the Zenith catalog is full of El Primero powered watches, but our pick has to be the Chronomaster Original with Black Tricolour Dial released in 2023. This watch retails for SGD 14k in a calf strap.
The design is a reinterpretation of the iconic tricolour dial in black which was introduced in 1969. This time, the tricolour shows up with the sub-dials in two tones of grey and blue against a black dial with a silver ring. The chronograph hands is now in red. Dramatic indeed. The 38mm case size is “Goldilocks” sized as just right, and wears beautifully on most wrists. The movement is the Cal 3600, the modern release of the original, and keeps the high-beat chronograph with column wheel activation which is smooth and tactile. A pioneering chronograph, now thoroughly modern but with a vintage charm.
Concluding thoughts
These six retro-inspired watches offer a captivating blend of nostalgia and modernity. Whether you’re drawn to the elegance of the IWC Portugieser or the rugged charm of the Tudor Heritage Black Bay, there’s a vintage revival watch to suit every style. What would you include in your list?
